
Larry Matthews stands outside his eatery Yam Yam’s Southern Cooking and Barbecue Restaurant on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard. It’s been called a drug front, a characterization he resists.
Jake Thomas
jthomas@portlandobserver.com
At Yam Yam’s Southern Cooking and Barbecue Restaurant on Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard greasy plates full of chicken bones are stacked up in bins from the day’s lunch rush. The purple coat of paint on the building’s exterior looks brand new. Smells of barbecue and fried cat fish waft out of the kitchen as an episode of “Cops” quietly blares on the television set in the dining room.
From the looks of it, you’d never guess that it was branded as drug front last fall during a federal investigation that toppled a large cocaine distribution network.
Earlier this week, James Ray “Lonnie” Yoakum was sentenced to 13 years in prison for playing a central role in a $300,000-month Crips gang-affiliated cocaine trafficking ring. Federal investigators have claimed that Yam Yam’s laundered money for the operation, and law enforcement seized $60,000 from the eatery last fall during a raid.
In the aftermath, Larry Matthews, the owner of Yam Yam’s, has been shy about talking to the media. But in an interview with the Portland Observer, shortly after Yoakum was sentenced, he asserted that he has been a positive presence in Portland, his relationship with Yoakum has been overblown, and his restaurant has gotten a bad rap from “snitches” arrested in the sting who were angling for a lighter sentence. He also said that he’s staying in business.
Matthews, a 59-year-old transplant for Birmingham, Ala. whose accent remains strong, said he became friends with Yoakum playing dice in after-hours spots after moving to Portland in 1988. He said he employed Yoakum, whom he still considers a friend, as a cook from 2000 to 2002, and even lived next door to him in a duplex in north Portland. His closeness to Yoakum, said Matthews, has erroneously led law enforcement to believe he was involved in the drug ring.
However, Matthews insists he never knew Yoakum was a drug dealer.
“As far as me knowing, I couldn’t put my hands on the Bible and swear that he’s a drug dealer because I never bought any from him and I never sold him any, and that’s something I don’t do. I’m not a drug person; anybody in this community who know me knows that I don’t deal with drugs,” said Mathews.
Matthews said that drugs may have been dealt in his parking lot over the years, but added that the same is true of many businesses- and it’s something he can’t control.
In September, law enforcement agents raided Yam Yam’s and discovered $60,000 cash in a safe, which investigators claimed came from laundering drug money.
“Why am I not in jail?” said Mathews, who has not been indicted. “Why not arrest me if you can prove these allegations that you are bringing up against me?”
Matthews said that he usually keeps large sums of money on hand because of a sick cousin in Alabama he has attended to from time to time. He also claimed that the seized $60,000 was leftover from refinancing his business, and has recovered a portion of it from the IRS.
In October, the Oregonian reported that an IRS investigation found that he was laundering money and the $60,000 came from drug trafficking.
Calls to the U.S. Attorney’s office, which prosecuted this case, were not returned.
This week, the Oregonian reported that Matthews is $415,000 in default on the property, and it will be sold in June, if not paid.
Matthews, who has owned Yam Yam’s for 13 years, said that business tanked after the story broke in October, and had to lay off all of his employees and run the restaurant by himself. The drop in customers caused him to fall behind on payments, he claimed, but has worked out something with his lender and will keep the eatery open.
He also noted that his restaurant has been community oriented, helping out with fundraisers for high schools and other organizations, giving ex-cons a second chance with a job, and providing food at the annual Juneteenth celebration- an event that commemorates the abolition of slavery in the U.S.
“I’ve never been a thorn in the community,” he said.
Robbin Mayfield, associate pastor at Victory Outreach Church, said Matthews has allowed the use of his parking lot for car washes to benefit the church.
Donnie McPherson said Matthews donated money to Jefferson High School’s wrestling team, which he used to coach, in the late 1980s and 1990s.
Matthews added that not only will he not shut his doors, but has plans for a “new Yam Yam’s” that includes a liquor license, lottery games, more employees and additions to the menu. He said he’ll be open for Juneteenth, just like past years.
“Yam Yam’s will be here,” said Matthews. “I’m not going any place,”
Here’s Matthews in his own words:
Produced by Johnathan Little of Urban Vibe.